Water Testing:
Recommend you test your pool water every few days. Replace your test kit eevery year. A test kit that will test for chlorine, pH, acid demand, and total alkalinity is recommended. Test strips also work well. Pool water samples should always be taken away from pool inlets and as deep as possible.
Chlorination:
There are several products on the market used to sanitize your pool water. Chlorine products are most often used in treatment of pool water. Chlorines chemically react to destroy bacteria, viruses and algae. Chlorine will also oxidize organic material such as perspiration and urine. The available free chlorine in your pool should be 1.0 to 2.0 parts per million (ppm) as measured on your test kit. If your test reveals low chlorine levels, you should add the proper amount of chlorine per the directions on the label of the product you are using.
pH Control:
pH is the measure of acidity or alkalinity of your pool water. pH values range from 0 to 14 with a value of 7 being neural. A value greater than 7 indicates that the water is alkaline. Your pool water should be between 7.2 and 7.6. It is very important that you maintain that ideal range. Low pH indicates that your pool water is corrosive and will damage your pool and equipment. It will also cause rapid dissipation of chlorine and eye and skin irriation. If testing reveals a low pH value, simple add the recommended soda ash indicated on hte product label. Allow a couple of hours of circulation before retesting. Soda ash may be added directly in your pool.
High pH values can also effect chlorine, resulting in scaling, staining and cloudy water. eye and skin irritation may also occur. pH can be lowered by adding the recommended amount of sodium bisulfate (pH reducer). Muratic Acid is another product used to reduce pH. Muratic Acid is a liquid, so exercise caution when using this product. After adding pH reducer to the pool, wait 2 hours before retesting water.
When using Muratic Acid as a reducer, never use more than one quart per 10,000 gallons at one time and install in the deep end of the pool in front of an inlet. Muratic Acid is heavier than water and can settle to the bottom of the pool. NEVER MIX CHEMICALS BEFORE ADDING TO THE POOL ! ALWAYS READ AND FOLLOW DIRECTIONS ON THE PRODUCT LABELS !
Total Alkalinity:
Bicarbonates, carbonates and hydroxides act as buffering agents to limit changes in a pool's pH. Total alkalinity is the measurement of alkaline materials in the water. Ideal range is 80 to 120 parts per million. Keeping your total alkalinity in this range will make it easier to control the pH in your water. Low alkalinity can cause pH bounce (abrupt changes in pH upon adding small amounts of chemicals). This can be corrected by adding a 1.5 lbs. of baking soda directly into the pool. Don't confuse baking soda and soda ash; soda ask is a pH increaser. If the total alkalinity is high, pH tends to be high also. To lower alkalinity, add small amounts of Muratic Acid over a period of several days. Sometimes this process could take several weeks, so be patient. One quart of Muratic Acid per 10,000 gallons will lower total alkalinity about 11ppm. When lowering total alkalinity, you should never let pH drop below 7.0.
Calcium Hardness:
Calcium hardness is the amount of dissolve calcium in the water. Low calcium hardness can result in corrosive water, causing damage to pool surfaces and equipment. High calcium hardness causes scaling, staining, cloudy water and will leave deposits in heaters, pumps, filters, pipes and pool surfaces. The effects are most apparent on the pool tile. To raise calcium hardness to 10ppm, add 1.5lbs. calcium chloride per 10,000 gallons of water. To lower calcium hardness, you must drain a portion of water of the pool and refill. NOTE: It is not recommended to use your pool equipment to lower pool water !
Stabilizer:
The effects of sun light can zap the chlorine from your pool rapidly. Stabilizer or conditions of 20 to 30ppm should always be present. 2.5lbs of Cyanuric Acid per 10,000 gallons should be added to the skimmer while the pump is running. Cyanuric Acid is slow to dissolve, so before adding, backwash the filter, install Cyanuric Acid and let filter system run for 24-48 hours and do not backwash for at least 24 hours. Levels of 100ppm serve not purpose and may inhibit chlorine activity. If over 100ppm, drain a portion of hte pool water and refill until you get well below 100ppm.
Shock:
Shocking your pool (chlorine levels over 10ppm) will take care of the build up of organic water, perspiration, urine, body oils, suntan oils, etc. Also is knocks out algae and algae stains. Your should shock your pool once a week in hot weather and once every two weeks in the cooler months. Wait until the chlorine level is below 3ppm before using the pool. Some shock treatment products contain no chlorine and work by freeing combined chlorine already in the pool which does not increase the level of chlorine. It is normally safe to swim after using these products.
ALWAYS READ AND FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS OF THE PRODUCT LABEL !
1401 SE Parkway
Azle, TX 76020
817-238-0890
